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Posted by Meat Plow on April 26, 2007, 1:17 pm
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 00:52:54 +0000, FrozenNorth wrote:
> Meat Plow tossed the following at the wall, and it stuck:
>
>> On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 00:00:56 +0000, Aardvark wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 12:57:39 -0400, Meat Plow wrote:
>>>
>>>> A couple major issues:
>>>> The wall is about an inch off plumb from the bottom of the door from to
>>>> the top (81.5 inches) The wall leans inward the door is an inswing.
>>>> The wall was constructed using 2x3's, the door is for 2x4 wall.
>>>>
>>>
>>> If the studs are 2x3 you woulif there isn't too much weight on the
> frame,d make allowance for the plasterboard on
>>> top, giving you a 100mm (4inch) thick wall. The door casing on a plumb 4
>>> inch wall should fit perfectly so the architreve will fit flush to door
>>> casing and finished wall.
>>>
>>>> As I see it the only thing to do is to shore up the wall using 1x1 shims
>>>> at the top so the door casing is plumb, and to do some creative moulding
>>>> on the inside to make up for the door being set in and inch from the
>>>> wall at the top. Or are there some other alternatives, trust me I'm all
>>>> ears. I've replaced several doors in the past but never one on 2x3
>>>> construction and never one that was this far out of plumb.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I have fitted doorsets in non-plumb walls in the past (and probably will
>>> in the future :-)) and the usif there isn't too much weight on the
> frame,ual way to do it has been to fix the doorset
>>> perfectly plumb in the centre of the opening (in this case, so that there
>>> is half-an-inch over at the top on the outside and half-an-inch over at
>>> the bottom on the inside) then use a router or circular saw to rebate (or
>>> as you colonials say, rabbet) the back of the architreve to fit flush on
>>> both the wall and door casing. Any gaps remaining can be filled by
>>> decorator's caulk (as we say in joinery 'The man in white'll put it
>>> right').
>>>
>>> Other than that, you could shim the studs on the wall so that any
>>> plasterboard will be plumb, fix the doorset correctly and fill out
>>> whatever deficit remains between the width of the casing and thickness of
>>> the wall with a lath of suitable timber of the correct thickness. Then
>>> plant your architreve.
>>>
>>> HTH mate.
>>
>> Thanks, sounds very reasonable. Basically shim up on the front and sides
>> to plumb and level then do some creative carpentry work for trim and
>> moulding. Trimming the back of the casing to fit flush with the inside
>> isn't an option since I'd be cutting off part of where the lockset
>> anchors.
>>
> Told you I'd take care of you. You also have the option as part of the
> creative carpentry to mortise in a piece of a two by four that is level
> where the lockset will go. If the door is prehung, I'd hang it first, then
> cut out about eight inches around the lockset, and use good beefy screws to
> drive the 2x4 into whatever meat (excust the pun) you can find behind it,
> building up as necessary before putting in the frame. That may involve
> some plaster work, depending upon how thorough you want to be, and what
> your comfort level is with the work.
>
> It'll be a lot of work, but it should be doable.
It's doable. I have to do it the old door is gone :)
Main mistake I made was not checking to see if the wall was plumb
but the homeowner (my girlfriend) had already purchased the door
and it didn't really matter if it was plumb or not, the door was going in :)
She's just wondering what's taking so long to put it in LOL
Oh and her furnace went on the blink last night so now that has to be
replaced since it's 26 years old and will cost as much to repair as to
replace.
--
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COOSN-266-06-25794
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