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Posted by Ralph Mowery on April 21, 2007, 12:38 pm
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>I have a problem with my LT1000 not starting, when i say not starting,
> i mean no clicking whatsoever, prior to my current condition, the
> mower would click, click, click, then turn over to start, the starter
> didnt sound like it lagged, it just sounded like the power to the
> starter wasnt connecting good. the starter would turn over maybe just
> a little, then i'd have to click click click until it turned over
> again. but now it wont click at all. another note is: the last few
> times i got it to start, i had to fully depress the clutch instead of
> having it in the locked position. this is what ive done so far to
> check the cause. First i read the voltage coming from the solenoid to
> the starter when i turned the key, it read zero. i then read the
> voltage coming from the battery ( 2 year old battery, still full of
> water, has never been run down), it read a little over 12v, i then
> hooked the battery up to a charger (not the best charger, kinda old)
> and the meter only showed to be pulling 2~3 volts and was slowly
> reaching zero, so i assumed that the battery was good. Ive confirmed
> that i have 12v coming in to the battery terminal on the solenoid,
> upon turning the key to start, i have confirmed that i do not have 12v
> leaving the solenoid via starter cable. sooooo i then checked the hot
> wire that leads off the + battery terminal on the solenoid, it makes a
> stop at a 20a fuse (which is good), it then stops at the dc meter
> (which doesnt register the amps, but does have a charge on the +
> paddle connector), and finally makes a stop at the ignition switch. I
> then checked the two paddle terminals (one single white wire, and the
> other is a double black wire) on the solenoid for current when i turn
> the key to start, when i turn the key to start, i get 5 or 6 volts on
> each paddle connector, but when i reconnect them and read the battery
> terminal upon turning the key, i get nothing, so that lead me to
> believe that the solenoid was out, so i replaced it. well i hooked it
> up and i get the same results, so now i assume that my method of
> testing is all wrong to begin with. and now im lost like an easter
I stopped your post here as from what I get when you turn the key switch you
get only 6 volts. Hook your voltmeter to the battery and then turn the key
and see if the voltage of the battery stays at 12 volts or if it dropps to
around 6 volts. If it dropps that low under load then the battery is in
need of a charge (you did check for watter in the battery ) or it is bad and
needs replacing. A battery can be bad and still show up as around 12 volts
without a load on it, but putting a normal load on it will drop the voltage
to a low value. A small drop (say to 10 volts) may be ok under heavy load
such as starting, but not to 6 volts. You can also hook your car battery
to it with some jumper cables and see what hapens. It is doubtful, but the
starter could be locked up or the eingine could be locked up. Try turning
it by hand with the switch off.
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