|
Ron Webb wrote:
> > Probably coating the entire plywood covered wing, inside and out with
> > cladding epoxy would eliminate the changes brought on by humidity
> > variations.
In furniture making it is considered important to finish both sides
of a piece of wood the same to maximize dimentional stability.
Otherwise the rate at which moisture enters or leaves one side
of the board is different from the other so that whenever there
is a rapid change in humidity one side swells more than the other.
IOW, I tend to agree with the statement above, but the same
would be true for varnish, shellac, paint etc, so long as it was
the same inside and out, and the wing was vented so that the
humidity inside the wing was the same as outside.
Of course the sun only shines on (and dries) the outside.
>
>
> You may be familiar with "Wood/Epoxy Saturation Technique"
> That has been used in boat building for decades?
>
> How about "WEST systems" epoxy?
>
> Yep - that's where the "WEST" in WEST systems comes from.
>
> The wood gets soaked all the way through, so the wood is just there for
> support, and it seems to last forever.
Hve you tried cutting through a sample? My understanding is that the
epoxy will not penetrate any deeper than 1/16" through side grain,
and it would be VERY unlikely to penetrate past the glue beneath
the surface veneer in plywood. It woudl penetrate farther up the
endgrain, but since epoxy hardens pretty fast I doubt it would get
very fat that way either. You can saturate a board with linseed oil,
or mos taly oil, by leaving one end in a bowl of oil overnight.
> I BOILED some samples for 24 hours with no degradation other than a bit of
> color change. Add light fiberglass over that...
Did you compare bending strength before and after? What is the
glass transition temperature for WEST system epoxy?
No question that it's good stuff, but it's not magic.
---
FF
|
|
Re: Fiberglass vs. Fabric
