Home Page link

Re: Frugal Dehumidifier - any good models widely available?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 4       1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Re: Frugal Dehumidifier - any good models widely available? nicksanspam 04-23-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on April 23, 2007, 2:15 pm



>I've been looking for a good dehumidifier and I notice that each big
>box store only really carries one brand and there really isn't much
>online as far as reviews. I know some dehumidifiers are energy hogs...

How about a Crawlspace Smart Vent?

http://www.smartvent.net

They cost $365, but they only use 40 watts when moving 290 cfm of air
out of a basement when the absolute moisture content of basement air
is greater than the absolute moisture content of outdoor air.

To also heat (cool) a house in a cool (warm) season, we might power up
the Smart Vent with a differential thermostat only when outdoor air is
warmer (cooler) than house air.

Nick


PexSupply Save 10 468x60
Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on April 23, 2007, 2:31 pm




...
>
> How about a Crawlspace Smart Vent?
>
> http://www.smartvent.net
>
> They cost $365, but they only use 40 watts when moving 290 cfm of air
> out of a basement when the absolute moisture content of basement air
> is greater than the absolute moisture content of outdoor air.
>

Does that mean when the absolute moisture content is the same (high or low)
it does noething? Seems like it would have limited value in a naturally
humid region whee you want to make it lower.



>



Posted by on April 25, 2007, 4:42 am



>> How about a Crawlspace Smart Vent?
>>
>> http://www.smartvent.net
>>
>> They cost $365, but they only use 40 watts when moving 290 cfm of air
>> out of a basement when the absolute moisture content of basement air
>> is greater than the absolute moisture content of outdoor air.

The technical description on the crawlspace web page says they evacuate
crawlspace air when its RH is more than 35% and the absolute moisture
content of the outdoor air is lower than that of the crawlspace air.
They also evacuate crawlspace air when the crawlspace RH is less than
25% and outdoor air has 20% more absolute moisture. They say adding
humidity to a crawlspace is sometimes useful to keep it from drying out
to the point that hardwood floors buckle.

>Does that mean when the absolute moisture content is the same (high or low)
>it does noething?

Yes. This might work well in a climate with some humidity variability
and with a fairly airtight crawlspace and some building materials that
can store moisture. It would work better in Chattanooga (wmin = 0.0036
in January) than Key West (wmin = 0.0100 in January.)

>Seems like it would have limited value in a naturally humid region
>whee you want to make it lower.

Yes. It only works on dryish days. There's a nice graph of crawlspace
humidity over time on the web site.

Nick


Posted by William Mcfadden on April 23, 2007, 6:46 pm


>I've been looking for a good dehumidifier and I notice that each big
>box store only really carries one brand and there really isn't much
>online as far as reviews. I know some dehumidifiers are energy hogs...

Thermastor makes the most efficient dehumidifier, according to Energy Star.
Costs a lot but can pay for itself in energy savings. When I bought mine,
it was twice as efficient as the models sold at Sears. I use it to dry out
my swamp of a basement. It's somewhat noisy, but apart from that I have no
complaints.

http://www.thermastor.com/Santa-Fe/

The powered vent that Nick recommends would be a lot cheaper to buy and to
run, assuming it can be used in your application.

--
Bill McFadden billmc@agora.rdrop.com http://www.rdrop.com/users/billmc
CAUTION: Don't look into laser beam with remaining eye.

Posted by on April 24, 2007, 1:00 am



>nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote:
>
>>
>>>I've been looking for a good dehumidifier and I notice that each big
>>>box store only really carries one brand and there really isn't much
>>>online as far as reviews. I know some dehumidifiers are energy hogs...
>>
>>How about a Crawlspace Smart Vent?
>>
>>http://www.smartvent.net
>>
>>They cost $365, but they only use 40 watts when moving 290 cfm of air
>>out of a basement when the absolute moisture content of basement air
>>is greater than the absolute moisture content of outdoor air.
>
>But that isn't what he asked about. If he has a serious humidity
>problem as I did then venting won't do a thing.

Au contraire. It will, with suitable weather conditions and controls
and building materials that can store moisture and dryness, eg paper
and wood and clothing and concrete with suitable sorption isotherms.

Concrete stores about 1% moisture by weight as the RH of the surrounding
air increases from 40 to 60%, and it weighs about 150 lb/ft^3, so
a 4"x1000ft^2 50K pound floorslab might store 500 pints of water as
a basement RH increases from 40 to 60%.

Smart Vent's 12/19/2000 US patent no. 6,161,763 "Module-controlled building
drying system and process" at http://www.freepatentsonline.com describes

"...drying air circulation between inside and outside the building based
on absolute humidity and temperature sensor measurements... the input ports
are connected to... outside absolute humidity sensors... [and] inside
absolute humidity sensors [and] the output ports are connected to...
[a fan system.] ...if the outside air has a lower absolute humidity than
the inside air... the fan system output will be activated... if the outside
air has a higher absolute humidity than the inside air... the fan system
will be shut down."

>Last year when I turned my vacation home into my residence and moved a
>lot of possessions into my basement, I bought this dehumidifier:
>
>http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?catg=535&item=266795&prDeTab=2#A
>
>The way to evaluate the efficiency of a dehumidifier is its rating in
>pints removed per KWH consumed. Using the spec sheet of 580 watts
>draw and 40 pints/day, that works out to 2.9 Pts/KWH.
>
>It turns out that this is worst-case, for I just checked my unit with
>a Kill-A-Watt and measured 450 watts. That makes the Pts/KWH a much
>better 3.7...

Yesterday it was 67.8F with 41% RH in my house with some windows open,
so the vapor pressure Pi = 0.41e^(17.863-9621/(460+67.8)) = 0.284 "Hg.
The indoor humidity ratio wi = 0.62198/(29.921/Pi-1) = 0.00597 pounds
of water per pound of dry air. The outdoor sensor in partial sun read
84.0 at 19%, so Po = 0.181 "Hg and wo = 0.00379, so every pound of air
that flowed through the house removed wi-wo pounds of water.

A Smart Vent could have removed 290x60x0.075(wi-wo) = 2.8 pints of water
per hour, at 70 vs 3.7 pints per kWh.

To also heat (cool) a house in a cool (warm) season, we might power up
a Smart Vent with a differential thermostat only when outdoor air is
warmer (cooler) than house air.

And we could hook a relay in parallel with the Smart Vent fan to power
a whole house fan, and add house room air thermostats to shut off the fan
if the house becomes too warm or too cool.

Nick


Page 1 of 4       1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
who makes a good dehumidifier? July 15, 2008, 5:08 pm
Re: Need advice on window ac models May 29, 2006, 6:16 pm
All new models of Mitsubishi air conditioners May 15, 2007, 2:57 pm
All new models of Mitsubishi air conditioners May 15, 2007, 3:00 pm
All new models of Mitsubishi air conditioners May 25, 2007, 4:11 pm
Top Air Conditioners Models Reviews June 7, 2007, 11:10 am
Bikini Models on beach March 27, 2008, 8:42 am
Latest models of Panasonic air conditioners May 20, 2007, 10:31 am
Newest Top Air Conditioners Models - June Market Edition May 27, 2007, 10:28 pm
wired/interconnected smoke detectors: any low voltage models? September 19, 2007, 10:11 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap