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Posted by coustanis on March 16, 2007, 12:54 pm
> coustanis wrote:
> > Hi all,
>
> > My house is heated with hot water baseboard radiators. The hot water
> > is supplied by a boiler furnace with circulation pump. The furnace
> > has an automatic fill valve that is kept in the off position unless
> > the system needs water. It is them manually opened until proper
> > pressure is achieved. The burner comes on at about 150 degrees and
> > goes out at 160 degrees. I try to maintain about 18psi at 160 degrees
> > system pressure. The safety blow valve is set to blow at 35psi. It
> > has an air purge valve at the top of furnace just below the floor
> > above it (about 10 feet from basement floor).
> > The air purge valve is new and so is the expansion tank. The
> > expansion tank pressure seems to match the boiler pressure.
>
> > Here's the problem. Every couple of days the system pressure has
> > dropped to about 10 or 11 psi at 160 degrees. This effects the
> > efficiency of both the radiator heat as well as the potable hot water
> > (which is heated bythe boiler).
> > I open the fill valve, purge the air and close it all back up at 18psi
> > at 160 degrees. All is well for another couple of days until the
> > pressure if back down and I repeat the process.
>
> > I don't see any leaks, no water dripping from ceilings or pooling
> > anywhere that I can see. One room of the house is a concrete slab
> > floor (converted carport). It has heating pipe within the concrete
> > slab.
>
> > I keep adding water and purging. What could cause the pressure to
> > keep dropping?
> > I'm out of ideas.
>
> > Thanks in advance,
>
> Quote: "It has heating pipe within the concrete
> slab."
>
> I bet you have answered your own question.
>
> After the heating season is over, maybe look for a
> way to isolate that loop, then pressure test it for leaks.
>
> Jim
That's the answer I was trying to avoid. I can't imagine replaceing
pipe within concrete.
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