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fredfighter@spamcop.net wrote:
> jls wrote:
> > I am rebuilding a Super Cub wing and the flanges on the ribs and the
> > spar caps have been drilled perfectly so the #4 steel screws go right
> > in, that is, if a screw has not been broken off. In which case I've
> > the option of redrilling and turning the spars into Swiss cheese and
> > losing ac43-13 edge distance on the rib flanges, or drilling out the
> > broken, embedded screws. Trouble is that when I try to drill the damn
> > broken screws out they harden and the drill bit becomes useless.
> >
> > Looks like I need a #45 drill bit made of diamond or carbide. Ideas?
> > Thanks.
>
> I've a set of silicon carbide tipped drills. The guy
> I bought them from used to go around to woodworking
> shows demoing them by drilling holes in files and bricks,
> glass blocks, all sorts of things, all with the same bit.
>
> Yes, silicon carbide, not tungsten carbide.
>
> Altavista has lots of hits on "diamond drill bit'".
>
> But a #4 screw is tiny. Good Luck.
>
> --
>
> FF
Thanks, Fred. All these ribs I bought from Northland in Dakota
Territory @ $50 apiece were already drilled for screw holes-- eight per
rib and two for each nose rib. They matched up perfectly to the holes
drilled in the spars when this aircraft was built at the factory in the
fifties, so when I began fastening new ribs to the old spars I began
finding holes that were stopped up, i. e., holes where screws had been
broken off.
So a guy in the Supercub Club from the Cleveland area has advised me to
buy a pencil die grinder, i. e., a carbide tipped tool--- like the
dentists use--- to drill out the embedded screws.
Thanks for your very informative post.
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Re: aluminum rib, aluminum spar, holes drilled but screws broken off
