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Posted by timO' on March 10, 2007, 1:58 pm
I am going to wire my new Rheem Air Handler myself.
It is 220V. It has two CB's on the front; one 60A and one 30A.
There are a few different size knockouts in the top of the unit.
I would figure that a disconnect adjacent to the air handler is
required.
Back at the meter, I'm going to come off the new 200A meter into a
200A load center which has 4 spaces (it says room for 8 circuits on
the carton)
It comes with the 200A main CB, and I'll get two 100A/220A CB's.
I want to punch holes in the back of the load center then directly
into the structure. This is OK? How do I attach it to the house. We
have cheezy PVC siding over what I suspect is wood clapboard.
Comments and suggestions?
Thanks
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Posted by Jeff Wisnia on March 10, 2007, 2:50 pm
timO' wrote:
> I am going to wire my new Rheem Air Handler myself.
> It is 220V. It has two CB's on the front; one 60A and one 30A.
> There are a few different size knockouts in the top of the unit.
> I would figure that a disconnect adjacent to the air handler is
> required.
> Back at the meter, I'm going to come off the new 200A meter into a
> 200A load center which has 4 spaces (it says room for 8 circuits on
> the carton)
> It comes with the 200A main CB, and I'll get two 100A/220A CB's.
Did you mean to say 100A/220 VOLT CB's?
One breaker should be enough to handle that air handler's needs, use 1
gauge wire to connect to a disconnect switch adjacent to the air
handler, and from there to the unit.
> I want to punch holes in the back of the load center then directly
> into the structure. This is OK?
I'm no code mavin, but the ones on our home were done that way and
passed inspection. Just make sure you use a suitable cable clamp in the
holes, and it would be a good idea to put a blob of silicone caulk
around the clamp before you push the load center against the house, just
to avoid water/insect entry.
How do I attach it to the house. We
> have cheezy PVC siding over what I suspect is wood clapboard.
I'd go for No. 12 wood screws about 2" long.
> Comments and suggestions?
Use a non-fused disconnect switch inside. The kind where you pull out a
"shorting plug" works well.
I personally had my fill of fused disconnect switches when one of the
ones on an air handler in our home would fry a fuse every couple of
years because the switch blade contact resistance rose over time and the
heat generated during high current auxillary heater operation would get
conducted to the adjacent fuse end cap. Eventually it would get hot
enough to melt the solder connecting the fuse link to the end cap and
open the circuit. Not a classic "blown" fuse, the link was still whole
and the fibre fuse body was charred to a crisp. <G>
Cleaning the switch contacts and fuse clips and replacing the open fuse
would "fix" things for a year or so, but the problem always came back
the same way. BTW, the disconnect was located in a dry cool area.
I replaced the fused disconnect with a brand new one and after a few
years it started doing the same thing, so I gave up and last summer
replaced it with a non-fused disconnect. So far no problems.
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.
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Posted by John Grabowski on March 10, 2007, 2:53 pm
> I am going to wire my new Rheem Air Handler myself.
> It is 220V. It has two CB's on the front; one 60A and one 30A.
> There are a few different size knockouts in the top of the unit.
> I would figure that a disconnect adjacent to the air handler is
> required.
> Back at the meter, I'm going to come off the new 200A meter into a
> 200A load center which has 4 spaces (it says room for 8 circuits on
> the carton)
> It comes with the 200A main CB, and I'll get two 100A/220A CB's.
Is the panel rated to have 2-100 amp branch circuits? Check the label on
the inside of the panel if nothing is mentioned on the box. It should say
something like "Maximum branch circuit size....."
> I want to punch holes in the back of the load center then directly
> into the structure. This is OK? How do I attach it to the house. We
> have cheezy PVC siding over what I suspect is wood clapboard.
Use a hole saw big enough to accommadate the connectors that you will use to
come out the back of the panel. Pull the stripped wire out of the holes.
Put the connectors on the cable without the locknuts. Bring the wire and
connectors into the back of the panel and install the locknuts. Bushings
would be good also. Put duct seal in the holes in the house and around the
connectors and push the panel against the house and screw it to the siding
with long enough screws to catch wood. Use #10 or #12 cadmium plated sheet
metal screws. Be careful not to pull the plastic siding in too much. Put
caulk or duct seal at the top edge of the panel where it meets the siding to
prevent water from getting behind.
This is not as easy as it sounds.
> Comments and suggestions?
> Thanks
>
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Posted by lp13-30 on March 10, 2007, 4:40 pm
I will add that if screws do not seem to hold the box to the wall
securely, use toggle bolts. Larry
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Posted by timO' on March 13, 2007, 7:22 am
On Mar 10, 4:40 pm, LP1...@webtv.net (lp13-30) wrote:
> I will add that if screws do not seem to hold the box to the wall
> securely, use toggle bolts. Larry
Yes I meant 100A/220V breakers. My old meter panel was in place when
they installed the cheezy PVC, the 'framed' around it.
Boltig the new meter panel and outdoor load center up against the PVC
will no doubt distort it, so I was thinking standing the units off the
siding.
With a 100A up at the load center, and CB's in the air handler, I was
thinking a fused disconnect would be redundant, and problematic,
although I already have two of these (one for the water pump and one
for the water heater, and never had the problems described.
How do I branch off the disconnect to supply the two seperate breakers
in the Air handler? There is no buss, just 4 cpnnection points; two
for each breaker.
Thanks for the ideas.
This work is by no means easy, but I am experienced in handling thee
materials, I just wanted to get some ideas back from y'all. From
speaking to numerous electricians, there apparently are typically
several ways to do a job and still be doing it right
thanks again for the feedback
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