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Staining Maple Cabinets storiesr 04-08-2007
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Posted by storiesr on April 8, 2007, 7:35 pm


Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple
cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
Have tried way too many options for staining with no success at all.

1. Water based raises the grain too much; why sand all over again when they
came nice and smooth?
2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.
3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.
4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an hour
and then it is gumming whenI remove it.
5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.

Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not want to
take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say they
have never had this complaint before.

I am getting very frustated.


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by Eric on April 8, 2007, 7:56 pm



> Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple
> cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
> Have tried way too many options for staining with no success at all.
>
> 1. Water based raises the grain too much; why sand all over again when
> they
> came nice and smooth?

Any stain you put on will raise the grain, wood is not sealed yet. YOu will
need to sand smooth after your first coat of what ever you put on.


> 2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.3

Nope to hard and tight of grain

> 3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.

I would seal it with shellac(sp)

> 4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an
> hour
> and then it is gumming whenI remove it.

Junk don;t use it

> 5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.

Poly is junk also. i would stay away.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not want
> to
> take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say they
> have never had this complaint before.
>
> I am getting very frustated.


What are you trying to do. I like the look of natural maple, why would you
want to change it?

eric



Posted by storiesr on April 8, 2007, 9:25 pm


Let me clarify: #3: I meant that I was told that PRE-conditioning would not
help.
Thanks for your comments Eric. I was hoping to add just a hint of grey stain
to the cabinet but at this point I have indeed thought of just sealing the
wood in its natural state.
You suggest shellac...oil based?



Eric wrote:
>> Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple
>> cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> they
>> came nice and smooth?
>
>Any stain you put on will raise the grain, wood is not sealed yet. YOu will
>need to sand smooth after your first coat of what ever you put on.
>
>> 2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.3
>
>Nope to hard and tight of grain
>
>> 3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.
>
>I would seal it with shellac(sp)
>
>> 4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an
>> hour
>> and then it is gumming whenI remove it.
>
>Junk don;t use it
>
>> 5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.
>
>Poly is junk also. i would stay away.
>
>> Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not want
>> to
>> take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say they
>> have never had this complaint before.
>>
>> I am getting very frustated.
>
>What are you trying to do. I like the look of natural maple, why would you
>want to change it?
>
>eric


Posted by Cliff Hartle on April 8, 2007, 9:42 pm


Shellac is a brittle or flaky secretion of the lac insect Coccus lacca,
found in the forests of Assam and Thailand. Freed from wood it is called
"seedlac".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac

It's dissolved in alcohol so its neither oil or latex.


> You suggest shellac...oil based?
>
>



Posted by 3G on April 9, 2007, 7:01 am



| Let me clarify: #3: I meant that I was told that PRE-conditioning
would not
| help.
| Thanks for your comments Eric. I was hoping to add just a hint of
grey stain
| to the cabinet but at this point I have indeed thought of just sealing
the
| wood in its natural state.
| You suggest shellac...oil based?


fool proof method for staining maple

sand with 180 grit sand paper
wet the wood with a damp rag (raise wood)
let dry completely

stain with desired color
seal with clear coat sealer

sand with 320 grit sand paper
apply 2nd clear coat

sand with 320 grit sand paper
apply 3rd clear coat

if you don't raise the grain first, before staining,
the maple will look blotchy.
by raising the grain, the maple absorbs the stain like an end grain more
evenly.








|
|
|
| Eric wrote:
| >> Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished
maple
| >> cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel.
| >[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
| >> they
| >> came nice and smooth?
| >
| >Any stain you put on will raise the grain, wood is not sealed yet.
YOu will
| >need to sand smooth after your first coat of what ever you put on.
| >
| >> 2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.3
| >
| >Nope to hard and tight of grain
| >
| >> 3. Am told that I should not condiiton it.
| >
| >I would seal it with shellac(sp)
| >
| >> 4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to
an
| >> hour
| >> and then it is gumming whenI remove it.
| >
| >Junk don;t use it
| >
| >> 5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well.
| >
| >Poly is junk also. i would stay away.
| >
| >> Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does
not want
| >> to
| >> take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they
say they
| >> have never had this complaint before.
| >>
| >> I am getting very frustated.
| >
| >What are you trying to do. I like the look of natural maple, why
would you
| >want to change it?
| >
| >eric
|



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