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Posted by limeylew@gmail.com on April 9, 2007, 7:00 am
> > It came with the galvanized finish, which was fine with me, as they
> > didn't have a black one and I also bought a can of flat black
> > Rustoleum, so I could make it match the others on the roof.
>
> > However, as I looked through the directions on the Rustoleum can, I
> > saw that it said to DON'T use on a galvanized surface.
>
> Paint does not stick well to galvanized surfaces. There are primers made
> just for galvanized (zinc chromate?)steel though. Another alleged trick is
> to wipe it down with vinegar, but I've never tried it. You can also let it
> age for about 6
months.http://www.benjaminmoore.ca/howto/problems_details.aspx?problem=poor_...
>
> http://www.ppg.com/ppgaf/special6.htm
> Painting New Galvanized Surfaces
>
> Sometimes customers want to paint the galvanized steel surface. The first
> question to ask is if the galvanized is new. If it is, the surface needs to
> be checked for passivators or stabilizers. Many galvanized metal
> manufacturers, knowing that an item may be stocked or stored in humid
> conditions, will apply an "after galvanizing" treatment or "passivator"
> which will inhibit wet storage stains ("white rust"). Most sheet metal or
> coil stock, from which decking and curtain walls are fabricated, receive
> this treatment. The passivator treatment is clear so it's not readily
> detectable, but the Steel Structures Painting Council and the American
> Hot-Dipped Galvanizers Association both state that this pre-treatment
> prohibits adhesion from taking place. It must be removed before painting
Thanks, this is very helpful.
Kind regards.
Lewis.
*****
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