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Posted by Harry K on March 24, 2007, 9:51 am
> Roger Shoaf wrote:
>
> > This is going to put the flange
>
> >>about 1/8" to 1/4" higher that the flooring.
>
> >>Seems like I got a couple of options.
>
> >>1, Add another layer of 1/4" underlayment.
> >>2, Just add an extra bit of 1/4" under the flange so it's supported.
> >>3, Cut out the cast, go with PVC. Obviously not a choice I'm particularly
> >>fond of. Current flange is almost 50 years old, but looks clean as heck,
> >>very surprised at how good it looks.
>
> >>I guess my question is if I choose option 2 will the flange being higher
> >>than the floor affect the toilet being secure? Looking at the toilet it
> >>appears that the part that goes in to the flange is a bit recessed than
>
> > the
>
> >>base which sits on the floor.
>
> > First thing I would do is look at the bottom of your toilet. Usually the
> > flange will fit completely within the base, and the outflow will sit inside
> > the flange so I don't see a problem.
>
> > Try setting the toilet base over the flange and if it sits flush to your
> > floor with out rocking you are good to go. All I see is that you might have
> > to trim a little more than usual off the threaded part of the tee bolts so
> > you can get the nut covers on but that is not really a problem.
>
> I agree with Roger on this. Do not disturb the cast iron work.
>
> You really should have at least 3/8" or so of clearance from the
> top of the flange to the bottom of the bowl. That's the space the
> wax will be squished into. If it's too thin, there is a much greater
> chance that the seal won't last. You might also consider one of the
> "rubber" seals available now instead of wax.
>
> Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
If the 'wax clearance' is limited, go to a Fernco Waxless Seal.
Actually, after replacing a toilet last summer using one, I will never
again use a wax seal.
Harry K
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