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Posted by Eigenvector on March 17, 2007, 4:31 pm
This is probably more appropriate for the woodworking group, but I'll cast
my line out and see what happens.
The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because
its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood.
After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the cabinet
isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My question is
what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?
It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth finish
so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its a
hardwood laminate or similar material.
I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to seal
or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color and
simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands, kitchen
smoke, traffic, etc..)
I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks, but
something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on March 17, 2007, 5:35 pm
> I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to
> seal or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color
> and simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands,
> kitchen smoke, traffic, etc..)
>
> I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks,
> but something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the
> kitchen.
Linseed oil would not be flammable once cured,but is still a poor choice for
a kitchen. I'd go with a polyurethane as it is easy to clean.
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Posted by on March 17, 2007, 7:58 pm
wrote:
>I'd go with a polyurethane as it is easy to clean.
I second that. They make low VOC poly so it won't stink up the house.
My kitchen is all either stainless or poly over wood (including the
countertops) They are bulletproof and everything comes off with a wet
sponge.
As for the stain, try a small out of the way spot but I bet the only
way you get a decent result is to strip it completety. Be aware if it
is a hardwood overlay you will be down to the base wood in about a
silly millimeter so sand carefully. In the end you might end up with a
laminate on it.
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Posted by 3G on March 18, 2007, 6:15 am
|
| > I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish
to
| > seal or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original
color
| > and simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands,
| > kitchen smoke, traffic, etc..)
| >
| > I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my
gunstocks,
| > but something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the
| > kitchen.
|
| Linseed oil would not be flammable once cured,but is still a poor
choice for
| a kitchen. I'd go with a polyurethane as it is easy to clean.
|
is that boiled linseed oil?
is poly made for food preperation areas?
is poly alcohol and chemical resistant?
I would reccomend a laquer based clearcoat instead of poly.
or a paste wax rubbed on by hand.
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on March 18, 2007, 12:39 pm
>
> is that boiled linseed oil?
Yes, it is the type used for finishing. The OP is familir with it.
> is poly made for food preperation areas?
Of course it is safe. Any finish sold in the US is considered food safe once
cured. Poly is found in millions of kitchens. If yo are talking about
commercial food preperation, that is a whole other set of regulations. Most
homowners do't put the hamburers on cabiten door when prepping.
> is poly alcohol and chemical resistant?
Any chemical typically found in a kitchen.
>
> I would reccomend a laquer based clearcoat instead of poly.
> or a paste wax rubbed on by hand.
It can work, but there are no many good brush on lacquers as compared to
polyurethane. The last thing I'd recommend in a kitchen is hand rubbed
paste wax. It may look good, but it is not going to hold up well with the
grease splatters and splashes that happen in kitchens.
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