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Posted by JoeBillyBob on March 28, 2007, 10:45 am
If the concrete floor gets wet, and it is covered up with some other
flooring that prevents the water to evaporate....... sounds like a mold
problem in the making, on top of all the other problems that were mentioned.
Fix it the right way the first time.
> If you are talking about the sheet metal studs meant for non-load bearing
> walls, I would have some cautions.
>
> 1. They are not strong. Impact or heavy loads or traffic will crush them.
>
> 2. They are galvanized steel sheet, anywhere they have direct contact with
> the alkaline concrete floor, especially if wet or damp will rapidly cause
> corrosion to eat them away weakening them further.
>
> 3. Occasional water on the floor will take a long time to dry up where it
> is sealed under your floor and may cause it to be permanently damp under
> your floor and grow mould on the plywood surface. It will not dry up as
> quickly as you see on an open exposed concrete surface.
>
>> I'm finishing my basement, which on occasion (1x evey 18 months or
>> so) gets puddles of water (1/4" deep) during heavy storms. Given how
>> minor the situation is I'm not inclined to go thru the LARGE hassle of
>> installing a sump (which would have its own problems I won't get
>> into). Given that, I am looking at laying doubled up (to form a
>> "box") steel stud tracks every 16" then putting a plastic vapor
>> barrier, then laying 3/4" plywood (which I got for free).
>> I know that framing studs are not meant to be load bearing but I
>> figure that doubling them up and having them directly on the concrete
>> would be OK. The reason I want to use steel is that they won't rot or
>> absorb H20.
>>
>> Anyone out there know if this might be a decent solution or have any
>> other ideas for the floor.
>>
>> PS - I was originally going to use the Delta-fl product but I'm
>> convinced that the H20 would migrate above the clearance level of the
>> dimples
>>
>
>
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